Autumn in Serra da Estrela: beech forests and what to do

For a few weeks a year the mountain changes colour. The beech trees of Manteigas turn copper, the birches of Covão d'Ametade go yellow, morning fog drifts through the woods and the paths disappear under the leaves. It is the season fewest people know about and, for us, one of the most beautiful times to be out in Serra da Estrela.

Why come in autumn?

In summer the mountain is green and dry; in winter it is white. In autumn it is everything at once: granite, brown leaves on the ground, golden beeches and, on clear days, deep blue sky above. The air is fresh, the trails have no snow yet and there are far fewer people than in August or on a snowy weekend.

It is also fog season. Cold mornings fill the valleys and, once you climb above it, the sea of clouds appears. Down in the woods, the same fog gives the soft light that makes the best photos of the year.

1. The Rota das Faias beech trail, Manteigas

The São Lourenço beech wood was planted in the early 20th century by the Manteigas Forestry Services and is now the most visited spot on the mountain in autumn. The PR13 MTG walking trail, the Rota das Faias, is a loop: it starts and ends at Cruz das Jugadas, is 5.4 km long and takes about 3 hours. The first climb is steep and so is the descent near the end, so wear shoes with good grip: wet leaves are slippery.

Check access before you go. Last winter's storms cut sections of road above Cruz das Jugadas, towards São Lourenço and Penhas Douradas, and the Manteigas tourist office knows the state of each road. In November the Manteigas council usually runs walks and activities around the beech trees.

2. 4x4 tour through golden woods

Some beech, chestnut and oak woods can only be reached on dirt tracks. That is where the jeep makes the difference: we drive leaf-covered tracks, stop where the light is best and reach viewpoints with nobody else around. On the Full-day 4x4 Tour there is time for all of it, with lunch in a mountain village.

If you only have a morning or an afternoon, see all our 4x4 tours in Serra da Estrela.

3. Earlier sunsets, with time for dinner

After the clocks change, the sun sets just after 5pm in November, so the Sunset 4x4 Tour ends in time for a relaxed dinner. With rust-coloured ferns and trees lit by the low sun, the late-afternoon colours are different: it ends with regional wine and a mountain food tasting at a viewpoint, shared at €79 per person or private from €120.

4. Sunrise above the sea of clouds

Autumn is one of the best times to see the sea of clouds: cold nights, damp valleys and still mornings. The Sunrise 4x4 Tour takes you to the viewpoint before the sun comes up and ends with a mountain breakfast at the top. Dress warmly: at that hour, at altitude, it is cold.

5. Covão d'Ametade and the Zêzere Glacial Valley

At the bottom of the glacial valley, near the source of the Zêzere river, Covão d'Ametade has a birch wood that turns bright yellow in autumn, with the Cântaros peaks behind. It is a short, easy walk from the road. From the viewpoint over the valley you can clearly see the U shape carved by the ice and, at this time of year, slopes painted brown and gold.

6. Chestnuts, magusto and São Martinho

Autumn on the mountain smells of roasted chestnuts. The village chestnut groves are in full harvest and, around São Martinho on 11 November, villages hold magustos with roasted chestnuts, jeropiga and água-pé. If you pass through a village that weekend, ask: they are almost always open to whoever turns up.

7. Eating well as it gets colder

It is the season for hearty dishes: Manteigas feijoca beans, Zêzere trout, roast kid and cured sausages with rye bread. Buttery Serra da Estrela cheese starts its season around November. After a morning walking among the beeches, a board of cheese and charcuterie tastes even better.

8. Stars come out earlier

With winter time, it is dark by 6:30pm. On clear autumn nights the mountain sky gets very dark, without summer heat blurring the air. On our Stargazing experience we pick you up at your accommodation, take you to 2 or 3 viewpoints and bring a snack and a hot drink.

When to go, what to bring and where to stay

The beeches usually change colour between late October and mid-November, but every year is different: a warm autumn delays the colours and a windy storm can strip the leaves in one night. If you can, come midweek. On November weekends Manteigas and the Rota das Faias fill up early.

Bring layers, a waterproof jacket and walking shoes that can handle mud and wet leaves. Manteigas is the closest base to the beech wood and the glacial valley; Covilhã and Seia work well too. To combine beeches, 4x4 and stars, plan at least 2 nights and book guided activities 1 to 2 weeks ahead.